Thursday, July 16, 2009

Lebanese Hospitality

Hi Everyone,
The guys are showering from their long day on the boat, I survived the 4-wheeler ride - even drove the beast, although I kept hitting the side of the cliff, but not bad for my first time. At least we stayed in Lebanon and upright. Anyway, thought it might be a good time to write another installment....but now everyone is coming down for dinner, so I'll stop for now and continue after everyone goes to bed. Hope you are getting these - thanks, Frank for letting me know you've received - hugs, Lari

Driving in Lebanon

Hi from Faqra, Lebanon!
Last night I made a list of blog topics along with all the things we've done in just 3 days and it was really long! We have been busy. But I have to tell you about the driving in Lebanon, especially Beirut. It is like nothing we have ever experienced anywhere...even the Italians look tame compared to the driving here. Charlie and I would still be in the driveway if we were at the wheel!
First rule: ignore all rules. Second rule: go as fast as you can at all times. Third rule: Other vehicles are to be passed, no matter what. Fourth rule: the entire road is yours - both sides. Fifth rule: there really are no rules.
James follows every rule! Huda is slightly more conservative, I can keep my eyes open! Traffic is incredible, like an LA freeway in rush hour run amok, with no lanes, speed limits or fear of dying. (I am the only one experiencing that!) Cars drive 3 and 4 abreast, pass constantly and if there is even an inch of space, a driver will somehow maneuver his car into it. Everyone has the right of way at every intersection, roundabouts are a free-for-all and stoplights - the few that work - are usually ignored unless there is a policeman there, who is usually directing everyone to go at once anyway. Motorbikes (forget helmets - not macho) speed in and out of lanes, zipping through the cars and trucks like gnats.
Remarkably, there is no road rage. We would be screaming and cursing constantly at the insane drivers trying to kill us....but here, it's normal to pass on curves, cut each other off, park in the middle of the road and never, ever make eye contact with another driver (if I don't see you, you aren't there). And we've seen a few fender benders, but no major accidents. Most cars - and there are very expensive models and beaters here - are dent free. So this system seems to work, but I have no idea how. Good brakes, and possibly large doses of controlled substances.
Crossing the street is equivalent to having a death wish! Pedestrians have no rights, in fact, I think it becomes a sport to aim at the poor human trying to get across the street. And the drivers give us "the look" as we run, screaming, across the road.
I seriously doubt either of us will get behind the wheel while here, but I have to go now and learn how to drive a four-wheeler from a 12 year old and a 14 year old. Say a prayer for me!
Love,
Lari